Press

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Oct 2024

Defaix briefly noted that “we picked from the 7th of September and brought in clean and relatively abundant yields. Potential alcohols were very good but not actually high. We had no problems with either fermentation though they were different in the sense that the alcoholic side took its time finishing whereas the malo was over quite quickly. As to the wines, perhaps their strongest attribute is how transparent they are as it’s really quite easy to see the differences in each wine. The whites will probably mature quickly but the reds should have no trouble aging for those who like to cellar their wines over the mid-term.” I agree with Defaix’ take as the reds should indeed age well if that’s your preference.

Whites:
2023 Rully 1er cru “Mont Palais”: Moderate wood frames vaguely exotic aromas of white peach, dried yellow fruit and a suggestion of lychee. The sleek, delicious and attractively vibrant middle weight flavors possess both an appealing texture as well as a subtle minerality that adds a sense of lift to the lingering finish where a touch of warmth slowly appears. This offers solid quality and is a wine that should drink well young and over the mid-term. (89-91)/2027+
2023 Rully 1er cru “Les Cloux”(Top value Wine) : This is aromatically similar to the Mont Palais at present though with the additions of hints of petrol and citrus. The medium weight flavors are at once finer and possess more prominent minerality that carries over to the clean, dry, youthfully austere and slightly more persistent finale. Worth checking out. (90-92)/2028+
2023 Rully 1er cru “Rabourcé” (Top value Wine) : More interesting are the dense, powerful and palate soaking flavors that possess a plenitude of dry extract that imparts a sappy texture to the impressively long finale. It doesn’t lack for character and is also worth checking out. (90-92)/2029+

Reds:
2023 Rully: Airy and ripe aromas include those of red and dark pinot fruit, plenty of earth and a whiff of sauvage character. The delicious and vibrant, if not especially dense, middle weight flavors retain a lovely sense of delineation on the finale. There is enough here to warrant 3 to perhaps 5-ish or so years of keeping. (87-89)/2027+
2023 Rully 1er cru “Préaux”: Here too the nose is airy and ripe with its aromas of black cherry, plum, crushed anise and a deft application of wood. There is very good intensity to the bigger, more powerful and denser medium weight flavors where the supporting tannins are slightly riper on the robust and moderately rustic finale. This compact and built-to-age effort should repay up to a decade of keeping yet be approachable after 5 to 7 years. (89-91)/2029+
2023 Rully 1er cru “Clos du Chapitre”: This is also notably ripe yet fresh with its peppery aromas of black currant liqueur, poached plum, earth and a top note of kirsch. There is again very good volume and reasonably good richness to the vibrant medium- bodied flavors that conclude in a borderline chewy, firm and grippy finale. This is definitely going to need at least a few years of keeping as it’s quite compact today. (88-91)/2030+

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – Août-Sept 2024 - Spécial Millésime 2023

2023 Rully premier cru blanc Rabourcé – 17,5  Rich aromas, complex, of white peach, aniseed, candied citrus, warm stones…The wine is rich, fat, tight, delicate, on a chalky mineral background. Great potential!
2023 Rully premier cru blanc Cloux  - 16,5  Fresh aromas of ripe yellow fruit, of sweet flowers, of spices…. Mouth-filling flavours, stylish, with a “sweet” fruit, refined, and a lovely, pure finale.
2023 Rully premier cru blanc Mont-Palais – 16,5  Expressive aromas of bush peaches, candied lemon, flowers…. Focused mouth, rich, with pleasant fruit, juicy and a lovely balance.
2023 Rully premier cru rouge Clos du Chapitre – 15,5  Delicate aromas of black fruit, soft spices, toasted notes…The wine is fleshy, with great volume, a juicy fruit and a fine balance.

BURGUNDY REPORT, Bill Nanson March 2024

2022 Rully 1er Les Cloux Blanc A broader aromatic, more obviously packaged with some oak. Mouth-filling, silky, generous wine but here is still a line of intensity and attractiveness – delicious, comforting wine!
2022 Rully 1er Clos du Chapitre Rouge  A very cherry nose very nice – and that’s before the lovely floral perfume rises form the glass. Freshness but here is density of flavour too – a little caramel in the finishing flavour – but then fading to finish more focused on the fruit again. That’s a very delicious wine – I’d wait 2-3 years for things to open out and the oaky caramel to fade – a similar patience as for the oak on the white – but these are both lovely!

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Oct 2023

Didier Defaix runs this 6.5 ha domaine with his wife Hélène as the vineyards belonged to her great aunt who, until they took over, sold the production as grapes. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two-hour drive though plans are now in place to build local facilities. Defaix briefly noted that “we enjoyed a pretty straightforward growing season in 2022 as other than some hydric stress, there was little else of consequence and certainly nothing like we were up against in 2021. We picked from the 27th of August and the fruit was essentially spotless. Yields were average to slightly above average with good ripeness levels that came in between 12.5 and 13.2% for the whites and 12.7 to 13% for the reds. The skins in both varieties were quite thick so we had to press carefully for the whites and vinify lightly for the pinot, in fact we did almost no punching down. As to the wines, they’re clearly on the riper side yet don’t lack for freshness or energy. I think they’ll be popular as they should drink well young but there is sufficient density such that they should age well too over the medium-term.”
Whites:
2022 Rully - Mont Palais : There is enough wood to notice framing the vaguely exotic aromas of poached pear, spice and a floral top note. There is both fine richness and volume to the surprisingly broad-shouldered flavors that deliver fine length on the bitter lemon and sneaky long finale. This isn’t especially refined but I like the balance. (89-91)/2027+
2022 Rully - Les Cloux : Here the wood treatment is more subtle on the very pretty and more floral-suffused nose of citrus, anise and white orchard fruit scents. There is a finer texture to the punchier medium weight flavors that culminate in a bone-dry, balanced and even more persistent finale. The underlying tension is palpable and overall, this chiseled effort is very good and a wine that should amply repay mid-term keeping. (90-93)/2028+ - ''Sweet Spot'' list
2022 Rully - Rabourcé : A subtle but not imperceptible application of wood sets off the cool and airy blend of white orchard fruit, citrus confit and a hint of crushed anise. There is again fine concentration to the delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that also flash good underlying tension that carries over to the nicely dry and equally persistent finish. (90-93)/2028+ - ''Sweet Spot'' list
Red:
2022 Rully: Ripe and distinctly earthy aromas include those of various red berries and plum. There is both good richness and vibrancy to the middleweight flavors that conclude in a dusty and slightly grippy but not hard finish (87-89)/2027+
2022 Rully - Préaux : An exceptionally pretty nose blends notes of cool and fresh raspberry, cherry and wisps of just turned earth and a range of spice nuances. The succulent yet punchy medium weight flavors possess slightly more refined finish that offers slightly better depth. This too should repay a few years of keeping with the same objective of rounding off the supporting structure. (87-90)/2027+
2022 Rully - Clos du Chapitre : This is aromatically similar to the Préaux but with a slightly spicier quality and in particular, black pepper. Once again I like the mid-palate texture to the succulent but punchy flavors that conclude in a firm, mildly rustic and better balanced finale that is structured enough to repay 5 to 8 years of keeping. (88-91)/2028+

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – Aug/Sept 2023 - Special Vintage 2022

Rully 1er cru  blanc Mont Palais – 15,5   Mild, sweet, fresh aromas of yellow orchard fruit, spices… Rich and round mouth, tensioned by a nice freshness, the whole with a good potential !

LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2024

Rully 1C Rabourcé 2021 *: This premier cru offers explosive and complex aromas of broom, yellow peach, toasted bread, vanilla and honey. In the mouth, roundness and fine mineral tension combine gracefully, before ending on a mouth-filling finale, with flavours of whipped cream. A savoury Rully that could easily match with a “vol-au-vent” .

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – June-July 2023

Rully 1er cru  blanc Rabourcé – 17,5 - Sweet nose with notes of ginger, bergamot and milky caramel. The mouth is round, seducing, with a smooth substance.
Rully 1er cru blanc Les Cloux 2021 – 17,5 - Yellow fruit notes with a great intensity on the nose and in the mouth. A saline mouth with a hint of exotism and a good length.

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Oct 2022

Defaix briefly noted that “the growing season was definitely complicated as Rully got killed by frost in 2021. We lost roughly 80% except in the Clos du Chapitre where, remarkably enough, we lost nothing at all! In short, we didn’t do too badly with the pinot crop, but the chardonnay was essentially wiped out. The good news is that the fruit was really quite beautiful with very good maturities without being over the top. Much to my surprise, given the difficulties of the season, I quite like the style and I’m proud of what we produced.” Also, I had a chance to revisit a number of older vintages, the reviews for which are available in the Burghound searchable database
Whites:
2021 Rully “Mont Palais”: This is reserved to the point of being almost grumpy with its highly restrained aromas of white orchard fruit, citrus and floral nuances. There is both excellent intensity and density to the middleweight flavors the coat the palate on the nicely stony, clean and dry finale. Lovely. (90-92)/2026+
2021 Rully “Les Cloux”: Here the nose is more expressive with its array of citrus confit, quinine, pear and discreet wood nuances. There is fine richness and mid-palate volume to the highly energetic medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a clean, moderately dry and balanced finale where a touch of wood slowly reemerges. This too is lovely. (90-93)/2026+
2021 Rully “Rabourcé”: Aromatically, this is almost a blend of the two preceding wines with its blend of petrol, citrus rind and white peach scents. Here too there is excellent density and evident power to the more imposingly scaled flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the mineral-driven, complex and slightly more complex finale. Excellent. (91-93)/2027+
Red:
2021 Rully: Very light ruby. There is enough reduction to push the very pinot like fruit to the background. Otherwise, there is good freshness and intensity to the chiseled lighter weight flavors that display a relatively refined mouthfeel on the lingering and chiseled finale. This is on the lighter side but really quite pretty and a wine that should drink well young. (86-89)/2024+
2021 Rully “Préaux”: Also very light color. Here too there is enough reduction present to bury the nuances of the nose. The delicious, if not especially dense, lighter weight flavors do offer very good delineation while exuding a subtle minerality on the bitter pit fruit-inflected finale. (87-89)/2025+
2021 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: More deeply colored. A very pinot nose reflects notes of various red berries, particularly raspberry and cherry, along with spice and earth wisps. There is better volume and richness to the middleweight flavors that also conclude in a bitter pit fruit and youthfully austere finale. (87-90)/2026+

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – Aug/Sept 2022 - Special Vintage 2021

Rully 1er cru Rabourcé 2021 - 15.5 : Fine aromas of yellow and white fruits. The wine is dense, full, long, harmonious and promising.
Rully 1er cru Cloux 2021 - 15.5 : Pure aromas of dried fruits, citrus and a chalky touch. The wine is round, fresh and a good length.

LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2023

Married with Didier Defaix, winemaker in Chablis, Helene Jaeger has taken over the domain from her great aunt in 2005. And has followed with an organic conversion right away.
Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2020 ** - Coup de cœur : With a deep ruby and dark red colour, the wine shows intense aromas of griotte cherry, white pepper and cocoa bean. Same intense aromas on the ripe and fleshy mouth, supported by fine and silky tannins. The final leaves the memory of a superb wine, already tasty but also able to age. A good pairing with a chateaubriand (a nice beef part).
Rully 1C Rabourcé 2020 ** : Shiny and bright on the eye, the wine has a vanilla nose just as a pastry. “Chubby” on the comforting sense, the mouth is as charming as elegant  and will perfectly pair with a creamy chicken or a with a refined cheese plate.

Inside Burgundy – Jasper Morris – January 2022

Whereas the Bernard Defaix wines in Chablis are machine harvested, the Rully wines of Domaine Jaeger-Defaix are picked by hand and then shipped up to Chablis for vinification. Natural yeasts are used for both domaines. The whites listed here are fermented and aged in wood, none new, and indeed very little new oak is used for the reds either. I taste these wines in Chablis alongside the Domaine Bernard Defaix offerings.
A tribute to the quality of the domaine, I found the same broad characteristics in the vineyards across the two vintages, and in particular three strikingly different white wines each time. In the reds, it is a choice between the stylishness of Préaux and the more complete experience of Clos du Chapître. Didier noted that the 2020s came out much deeper in colour than usual even though they did not punch down, and minimised extraction.

White

2020, Rully Mont Palais 1er Cru, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 90 Lemon and lime, with fresh apple notes on the bouquet, relatively typical for Rully. Very pretty on the palate, more weight than expected, white fruit with the lightest of peach overtones and excellent length.
2020, Rully Les Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 90  Clear pale fine and pure, a little stern and steely with only faint apple notes. An excellent core of dense white fruit, still some gas in it which helps the tension, some weight but clean and dense. And very persistent.
2020, Rully Rabourcé 1er Cru, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 88 Clear pale lemon colour. The most concentrated nose of the three, again with alight lemon touch. More flesh and more structure, but the flesh is a little bit more enveloping and the wine today comes across as less fresh.
2019, Rully Montpalais 1er Cru, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 89  Very pale colour. A touch of muscat on the nose. Clean and balanced however on the palate. Rich ripe peaches in fruit style but balanced structure and fills out the back of the palate very well. Just a little riper than I like, but very good in that style.
2019, Rully Les Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 89  Pale colour with a light green tint. Ripe apples on the nose. Spice too, then a very good tension. All in white fruit, less exotic than Mont Palais, with just a touch of heat at the back, but kept nicely in balance. Good length. 2019, Rully Rabourcé 1er Cru, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 90  Clean pale lemon colour. Backward and quite tense. First to pick, at 13.4%, slightly higher than its stablemates, but not immediately evident in taste. Gives concentration with some useful youthful bitters behind. Soft feathery white fruit on the palate, you can just see the heat, plenty of volume though. Very good. 

Red

2020, Rully, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 87  Very dense purple, with a concentration of fruit that is not especially Rully typical. Firm tannins and acidity, happily a wealth of fruit too. Keeps a certain crunch though.
2020, Rully Préaux 1er Cru, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 90 Rich imperial purple. There is an extraordinary intensity of ripe fruit, fresher than mulberry, and less forced than the village wine. A sweetness from the vintage, and a fine thread of acidity, this really fills the palate and it is easier to see where it is going. Cherry stones, says Didier.
2020, Rully Clos du Chapitre 1er Cru, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 92 (5*)  Not quite as dense in colour as Préaux, and the nose is a little more backward, but the quality of the fruit in the mouth is impeccable and a little more classic, yet still with the extra intensity. Excellent long and fine aftertaste.
2019, Rully, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 87  Brisk mid purple. A slightly rustic nose, firm tannins too, while the fruit is ripe and only just short of cooked. Clearly pinot fruit and with very good persistence.
2019, Rully Préaux 1er Cru, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 91  Excellent fresh purple and the pinot fruit on the nose also is much fresher. Crisp fresh cherries up front, a sweeter variety behind, very good length. Very aromatic. Balanced and long.
2019, Rully Clos du Chapitre 1er Cru, Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 91  Very slightly deeper colour than Préaux, offering a powerful but currently slightly reduced nose. Warmer richer fruit, some ripe pepper right at the end, notably greater depth of fruit on the palate, a grander wine worth waiting for. More structure fully ripe in 2019 but in balance.

LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2022

Married with Didier Defaix, winemaker in Chablis, Helene Jaeger has taken over the domain from her great aunt in 2005. And has followed with an organic conversion right away.
Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2019**: The delicate and refined nose is marked by the small red fruit and the wood. A supple and silky attack with some raspberry backwards, introduces an ample and dense palate, well built on stylish tannins. The jury advises to drink it in a few years’ time on a jugged hare.
Rully 1er cru Préaux 2019**:  A pleasant premier cru, with delicate fruity and spicy character, supported by fine and melted tannins.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – June/July 2021

Rully 1er cru blanc Rabourcé 2018 : expressive and fine aromas of white peach, pear, toasted bread…The material is rich, ripe, carried by a lovely tension, with length on top of that.
Rully 1er cru rouge Clos du Chapitre 2019 : Intense and fine aromas of red fruit : strawberries, raspberries…The wine is fleshy, coated, generous, full of fineness and with nice length.

LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2021

Rully 1er cru  Les Cloux 2018*: This 2018, first a bit shy, is showing more and more as the tasting goes on. The nose reminds of citrus fruit, exotic fruits and delicate small white flowers. One finds this freshness on a round and pleasant mouth, stretched on a beautiful mineral final.

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Dec 2020, Part II

Whites:
2019 Rully “Mont Palais”: There is both good richness and mid-palate density to the medium-bodied flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the bone dry, youthfully austere and sneaky long finish. At least some patience advised. (89-92)/2024+
2019 Rully “Les Cloux”: Deft wood influence can be found on the white orchard fruit aromas that are laced with hints of citrus zest and acacia blossom. The succulent and slightly denser flavors possess good dry extract that imparts a sappy texture to the saline-inflected finale that is also quite dry and youthfully austere. This too will need at least some patience as there is fine development potential. Worth checking out. (90-92)/2025+ 
2019 Rully “Rabourcé”: Here too there is a deft touch of wood framing the more citrus-suffused aromas of green apple, spice and a whiff of herbal tea. The large-scaled, delicious and very rich medium weight flavors possess a highly attractive mouthfeel while delivering excellent length on the lemony, very dry and chiseled finale. This too is worth a look. (90-92)/2025+
2018 Rully “Mont Palais”: An attractively fresh and relatively exotic nose reveals notes of muscat, pear and citrus where the latter element is picked up by the notably succulent, indeed borderline opulent, flavors that display good power and drive on the dense, serious and moderately firm finale. This needs to develop more depth, but it should be able to do that if held for a year or two first. 89/2023+ 
2018 Rully “Les Cloux”: A smoky broad-ranging nose is comprised by notes of mineral reduction, spiced apple, lemon zest and a hint of herbal tea, all of which is trimmed in relatively generous wood. The sleek and nicely detailed medium weight flavors possess more refinement on the citrusy and slightly firmer finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. I very much like the texture, and this is altogether lovely – worth checking out. 92/2024+ 

Reds:
2019 Rully: A ripe and somewhat fruity nose combines notes of red and dark raspberry with those of earth and a hint of the sauvage. There is an appealing underlying tension to the firm and relatively powerful flavors and a long finish. This should reward a few years of cellaring if desired. (87-89)/2023+
2019 Rully “Préaux”: This is aromatically similar to the straight Rully with the addition of noticeable wood toast. There is both a bit more volume and a finer texture to the delicious middle weight flavors and a lingering finish that offers better depth. (88-91)/2024+
2019 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: The underlying fruit seems quite ripe. There is more volume still to the solidly concentrated medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a robust, powerful and slightly austere finale. This is sufficiently firm to require at least a few years of patience. (89-92)/2026+
2018 Rully “Préaux”:A toasty red berry fruit nose that is quite spicy and softly earthy. The round and relatively tender medium weight flavors also possess good richness and a caressing texture, all wrapped in a clean, agreeably dry finish. 88/2024+
(for the other 2018's see below Burghound.com Oct 2020, Part I)

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Oct 2020 - Part I

Because of the sanitary situation, Allen Meadows has made a first tasting in the US with the samples we were able to send him which explains the very short list below. And he has completed when he came this fall with the other 2018's and all the 2019's (a supplemental issue will come before end year).

Didier Defaix (see Domaine Bernard Defaix above) runs this 4.5 ha domaine with his wife Hélène as the vineyards belonged to her great aunt who, until Defaix took over, sold the production as grapes. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hours drive though plans are now in place to build local facilities. Defaix noted that in 2018 “we began picking on the 3rd of September and brought in clean and very ripe fruit that really took its time fermenting; in fact, it was almost twice as long as a usual vinification. As was the case in 2017, I did no lees stirring as the wines seemed as though they were already sufficiently concentrated that they wouldn’t need additional richness. Potential alcohols were slightly higher than usual with slightly lower acidities though I did not touch them up as I don’t like that practice. I also used around 20% whole clusters to vinify the reds.”

White:
2018 Rully “Rabourcé”: Discreet but not invisible wood influence frames the attractively floral-infused nose of various white orchard fruit that is liberally laced with citrus whiffs. The intense and tautly muscular flavors possess evident minerality on the clean and dry finish that is citrusy and sneaky long. It’s well-balanced and solidly complex. Worth a look.  90/2023+
Red:
2018 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: Here too the wood is nicely discreet on the fresh and layered mix of pepper, plum, earth and violet scents. There is fine energy to the intense lighter weight flavors that culminate in a bitter cherry pit-inflected finish. There is good complexity and a year or two of aging should see it drinking well. 88/2022+

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Oct 2019

Didier Defaix runs this domaine with his wife Hélène as the vineyards belonged to her great aunt who, until Defaix took over, sold the production as grapes. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hours drive though plans are now in place to build local facilities. Defaix noted that in 2018 “we began picking on the 3rd of September and brought in clean and very ripe fruit that really took its time fermenting; in fact, it was almost twice as long as a usual vinification. As was the case in 2017, I did no lees stirring as the wines seemed as though they were already sufficiently concentrated that they wouldn’t need additional richness. Potential alcohols were slightly higher than usual with slightly lower acidities though I did not touch them up as I don’t like that practice. I also used around 20% whole clusters to vinify the reds.” The 2017s, revisited below, were bottled in January 2019.
Whites:
2018 Rully “Mont Palais”: An attractively fresh and relatively high-toned nose reveals notes of green apple, pear and citrus where the latter element is picked up by the notably succulent, indeed borderline opulent, flavors that display good power and drive on the dense, serious and moderately firm finale. (88-91)/2022+
2018 Rully “Les Cloux”: A smoky broad-ranging nose is comprised by notes of mineral reduction, spiced apple, lemon zest and a hint of herbal tea. The sleek and nicely detailed medium weight flavors possess more refinement if not quite the same power on the citrusy and slightly firmer finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. (89-91)/2023+
2018 Rully “Rabourcé”: Moderate wood influence frames the more floral-infused nose of various white orchard fruit that is liberally laced with citrus whiffs. The intense and even more powerful bigger-bodied flavors possess evident minerality on the clean and dry finish that is also citrusy and slightly warm. (89-91)/2024+
2017 Rully “Mont Palais”: A deft application of wood easily allows the pretty aromas of acacia blossom, citrus and pear to be appreciated. The attractively rich and vibrant generously proportioned flavors culminate in a clean, dry and seductively textured finish. This nicely complex and delicious effort should repay mid-term cellaring but also be approachable young. 90/2023+
2017 Rully “Les Cloux”: A gently oaked and softly exotic array is comprised by notes of pineapple, white flower, pear and a whiff of orange marmalade. Here too the medium-bodied flavors are both seductive and quite generously proportioned with excellent richness to the sappy and bitter lemon-infused finish that flashes just a bit more energy plus a touch of salinity helps to add some backend lift. Lovely. 91/2023+
2017 Rully “Rabourcé”: This is actually aromatically quite similar to the Les Cloux except that it’s markedly more floral. Once again there is excellent richness and mid-palate density to the middle weight flavors that possess a caressing mouth feel, all wrapped in a slightly more complex finish where a hint of bitter lemon surfaces. This too is lovely stuff and worth a look. 92/2024+
Reds:
2018 Rully: A pretty and notably ripe nose combines notes of violet, dark raspberry and cherry with a top note of spice. The succulent, rich and caressing mid-palate of the medium weight flavors contrast somewhat with the rustic finish. This delicious effort could easily be enjoyed on the younger side. (87-89)/2022+
2018 Rully “Préaux”: An overtly toasty red berry fruit nose is quite spicy and softly earthy. The round and relatively tender medium weight flavors also possess good richness and a caressing texture, all wrapped in a clean, agreeably dry finish. This too should drink well on the younger side. (87-90)/2022+
2018 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: Here too there is plenty of toast character to the layered mix of pepper, plum, earth and violet scents. There is fine volume to the velvet-textured medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a mildly bitter but sappy finish. The supporting tannins appear to be phenolically ripe so my sense is that the bitterness will gradually dissipate. (88-90)/2023+
2017 Rully: Light ruby tint. A softly fruity nose reflects notes of strawberry, cherry and raspberry with hints of earth and spice. The racy and detailed lighter weight flavors are delicious though the mildly rustic finish displays a hint of asperity that is just enough to mildly compromise the overall sense of balance. 87/2020+
2017 Rully “Préaux”: Light ruby hue. This is aromatically similar to the straight Rully villages save for it’s a bit more complex whilst being trimmed in soft wood. The equally lighter weight flavors are delicious while offering a bit more richness, all wrapped in a bitter fruit pit-inflected finish where the wood telegraphed by the nose resurfaces. 87/2021+
2017 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: Slightly toastier aromas consist of earthy red and dark cherry aromas are cut with evident earth nuances. The succulent and rounded flavors possess better volume as well as mid-palate density before culminating in a slightly rustic finish where once again the wood influence reappears. 88/2022+

LE GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE - Sélection 2020

The domain Jaeger Defaix comprises 6 hectares, including 4,5 hectares premier cru, certified organic farming since 2012. Hélène Defaix, agronomist and oenologist, the wife of Didier Defaix (domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis), is at the helm. A vine growing where the soils are ploughed, and the wine-making that best respects the fruit so that the parcels express themselves, starts to pay-off. The vintage 2017 showed at its best, with classic and refined style wines.

LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2020

Rully 1C Les Cloux 2017*: This 2017, well built, shiny bright, offers a bunch of white and yellow flowers, underlined with lemon. Greedy, round and rich with also a great freshness; the plate shows notes of acacia, hawthorn and eglantine, with a nice finish on toasted almond. 2020-2024

LE POINT - SPÉCIAL VINS – 5 sept 2019

Rully 1C Les Cloux 2017: Yellow peach, dried apricot, pleasant mouth, nice fruit; ripe grapes that make this wine a delicious treat; lively and fresh finish.
Rully 1C Rabource 2017: White fruits, vine peach, citrus, nice complex nose; lively, straight and fruity mouth.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – June 2019 - Special Vintage 2018

Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2018 : Notes of red berries with a quite intense wood. Nice substance and pleasant freshness in the mouth. A very digestible style on the final. 15.5/20

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – May 2019

Rully premier cru blanc Mont-Palais 2017 - 16: Sweet and spicy nose with candied lemon notes. Fine volume in the mouth. The wine is still reserved yet full of promise.
Rully premier cru blanc Rabourcé 2016 – 16: Notes of flowers and sweet spices to the nose. In the mouth, the wine is straight, with aromas of grapefruit, tangerine and a saline finale.
Rully premier cru blanc Mont-Palais 2016 – 14,5

TERRE DE VINS – 2019

Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais 2017: In the early 2000s, Hélène Jaeger-Defaix (qualified as agronomist and oenologist) has taken over the Rully vineyards owned by her family, local winegrowers since the 16th century. The domain has moved to organic farming in 2009, together with Hélène’s husband, Didier Defaix, winegrower in Chablis (the recommendable domain Bernard Defaix). They present a Rully which blends harmoniously the style of a wine vinified with care and the suppleness (or greediness) of a generous terroir.

GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2019

Rully 1er cru Rabourcé 2016: This wine, bright in his pale gold colour with slight glints of green shows a very expressive nose : apricot, tangerine, pear, floral scents. The palate turns out ample and silky, with a fine balance brought by a lemony acidity, however the finish still lacks some harmony that a few months cellaring will fulfil.
The Rully 1er cru Mont palais 2016 is also mentioned.

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Oct 2018

Didier Defaix (see Domaine Bernard Defaix above) runs this 4.5 ha domaine with his wife Hélène as the vineyards belonged to her great aunt who, until Defaix took over, sold the production as grapes. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hours drive though plans are now in place to build local facilities. Defaix noted that in 2017 “while our vines suffered no frost damage, there was just no juice in the berries so our yields were off around 30%. This is of course preferable to the 50 to 90% losses we endured in 2016 but even so, it’s not great for the bottom line. I did no lees stirring as the wines seemed as though they were already sufficiently concentrated that they wouldn’t need additional richness.” Defaix said that the 2017 reds were still in the middle of their malos and thus were not presented. The 2016s, revisited below, were bottled in January 2018.
Whites:
2017 Rully “Mont Palais”: A pungent nose of wood and reduction leads to attractively rich and vibrant generously proportioned flavors that culminate in a clean, dry and seductively textured finish where the oak telegraphed by the nose resurfaces. This delicious effort should repay mid-term cellaring but also be approachable young. (88-91)/2021+
2017 Rully “Les Cloux”: A moderately oaked array is comprised by notes of white floral, citrus and petrol. Here too the medium-bodied flavors are both seductive and quite generously proportioned with excellent richness to the sappy finish that flashes just a bit more energy plus a touch of salinity helps to add some backend lift. (89-91)/2022+
2017 Rully “Rabourcé”: Top Value This is actually aromatically quite similar to the Les Cloux except that it’s markedly spicier. Once again there is excellent richness and mid-palate density to the middle weight flavors that possess a caressing mouth feel, all wrapped in a slightly more complex finish where a hint of bitter lemon surfaces. Lovely stuff and worth a look. (89-92)/2022+
2016 Rully “Mont Palais”: A pungent nose combines notes of petrol-inflected and mildly exotic white orchard fruit that are trimmed in enough wood to notice. There is impressive richness to the sappy and intense medium-bodied flavors that terminate in an appealingly dry and sneaky long finish. This should be approachable, and enjoyable, young. 89/2020+
2016 Rully “Les Cloux”: A judicious dollop of wood sets off the pretty if moderately exotic aromas that also display a whiff of petrol and spice. The rich, caressing and admirably concentrated full-bodied flavors possess a slightly rounder mouth feel that carries over to the slightly warm if solidly persistent and stony finish. This too should be enjoyable on the younger side yet has the underlying material to reward short to mid-term cellaring. 90/2021+
2016 Rully “Rabourcé”: A slightly more complex nose combines ripe notes of white peach, apricot, peach, menthol and touch of wood toast. As is virtually always the case, this is the biggest and richest of the wines in the range with its powerful medium weight flavors that brim with dry extract before delivering excellent length on the lingering and dry finish where a hint of citrus peel character arises. Once again, this relatively powerful effort should be enjoyable young but deliver good results if held for 4 to 6 years. 91/2022+
Reds:
2016 Rully: Light ruby color. The raspberry, cherry and strawberry-suffused nose has a mildly candied aspect to it. More interesting are the succulent and vibrant middle weight flavors that possess a caressing mouth feel before terminating in a nicely intense finish that is dry in the best sense. While this could be enjoyed young, I would suggest holding it for 2 to 3 years to allow the supporting tannins to round out. 88/2020+
2016 Rully “Préaux”: Also light ruby color. A markedly spicier nose is comprised by notes of earth and various red berries. Here too the medium-bodied flavors possess a succulent and caressing mouth feel along with slightly better mid-palate density yet the finishing tannins are mildly drying. However, they seem ripe enough that I suspect that this will come together with a few years of bottle age. 88/2021+
2016 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: Slightly more deeply colored. A mildly toasty array consists primarily of dark cherry, raspberry and earth where a background wisp of pepper character can be discerned. The nicely rich and more voluminous medium weight flavors offer a bit more depth and energy on the mildly rustic but better balanced finale. 89/2022+

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD'HUI June July 2018

SPECIAL 2017 VINTAGE
Rully premier cru blanc Mont-Palais – 16  Golden green colour, brilliant. Refined aromas of white orchard fruit, with a hint of toast…the wine is very harmonious, rich, fine, long and fresh. A great potential !
Rully premier cru blanc Les Cloux - 16  Rich and fresh aromas of ripe yellow orchard fruit; a note of exotic fruit. The wine is rich, full, and energetic at the same time with a fine mineral-chalky finish.

CHRISTY CANTERBURY.COM May 2018

All in the Family : Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
I’ve long been fan of the wide range offered at Chablis’ Domaine Bernard Defaix . So when Didier (son of Bernard, who with his brother Sylvain oversees the domain’s production today) asked if I would be interested in tasting the wines of the Rully domaine that his wife, Hélène, inherited in 2002, I replied with great eagerness. I’d tasted a wine or two here or there in New York, but I didn’t know much about them.
Hélène first took over the Rully Premier Cru Mont Palais in 2002 then added the other white Premiers Crus in 2004. With the 2011 vintage, she and Didier picked up some Rully rouge, too. For now, the wines are vinified at the Chablis home base, but the couple aims to produce the Côte Châlonnaise wines down south soon.
The whole range brims with the freshness of the family’s Chablis wines. Didier introduced the reds saying that their aim is to make subtle Pinot Noir. And, they do. The wines’elegant harmony, profound aromatic purity and thoughtful delicacy give me no hesitation in recommending these wines. They are a joy to drink !

NOTES FROM JULY 2017
90  Rully Blanc Mont Palais Premier Cru 2016   As Didier poured this, he mentioned that it is always the most fruit-driven. The attack begins with sweet apricots and yellow tomatoes while the mid-palate dusts on winter and savory spices. There is a tight nucleus of viscosity in the mid-palate that is nudged by refreshing acidity into a flavorful and palate-caressing finish. Delightful !  Drink : 2018-22
91  Rully Blanc Les Cloux Premier Cru 2016  Overt and effusive on the nose, this wine’s polished core of concentrated fruit is very accessible. Brisk acidity lifts the glossy, sensuous texture and pulls the floral and baking spice tones into a lingering, spicy finish. Of the three whites, this seemed most robust in oak presence thanks to its spicy side, despite the fact there’s no new oak used here. It’s simply vinified and aged in oak prior to bottle. Drink : 2018-22
93 Rully Blanc Rabourcé Premier Cru 2016  Hailing from the top of this cru, around 300 meters, this has a surprising amount of stuffing in the mid-palate for a higher elevation wine. I loved the tangy, mouthwatering acidity that jostled around the lively yellow fruit core accented by cantaloupe and white pepper. Here the Jaeger-Defaix team uses some twice-fired Chassin barrels. Drink : 2018-24
88  Rully Rouge 2016  In 2016, this was entirely destemmed and aged exclusively in used oak. The nose is shy, but the elegant palate offers highly attractive raspberries and red plums. The crisp acidity gives the palate a taut and feisty feel that is nicely matched with smooth, drizzle-soft tannins. Easy-going and charming, this will hold well if you can resist it ! Drink : 2018-22
91 Rully Rouge Préaux Premier Cru 2016   The perky, fresh and inviting nose of blueberries, raspberries and anise doesn’t disappoint on the nicely concentrated, bewitchingly third-quenching palate. It is quintessential Pinot Noir in perfume and refinement. This sees one-third new oak and two-thirds six to seven times used oak. Didier commented that this – as well as all of their 2016s – would likely be ready to drink before the 2015s. Drink : 2017-23
93  Rully Rouge Clos du Chapitre Premier Cru 2016  This is a true clos (a vineyard fully enclosed by four walls) that sits just behind the family house and next to Préaux. Because it is situated in a clos, it’s a slightly warmer parcel than the Préaux. It’s dramatic to see the contrast of the two wines in their respective glasses. The lifted raspberry character carried over here, but this was a sturdier, more muscular wine with masses of cracked pepper and deeper tones of black cherry. Despite showing so much forward fruit character, the tannins were firm and sculpted, especially on the crisply dry finish. Lovely now but it will benefit from time. Drink : 2019-26

JANCIS ROBINSON - 19 Jan 2018

Demand for 2016 burgundies seems so far to have been concentrated on the smartest, most expensive, longest-lasting wines but there are some lovely 2016s lower down the ranks too. And they won't cost you a fortune in storage fees. I have picked out two reds I marked as VGV (very good value).

I loved Jaeger-Defaix, Clos du Chapitre Premier Cru 2016 Rully Rouge and saw it as fine proof that the Côte Chalonnaise can now field wines of serious interest to those raised on Côte d'Or wines. My tasting note for the 2016: 'Lively, fruity and fun with real lift! Exciting and racy. Lots of personality and well made. Well structured and long. Transparent but also hedonistic. Very Good Value. 16.5/20 Drink 2018-24'

Red Rully is rarely hefty – the Chapitre vineyard, with its walled Clos pictured on Jaeger-Defaix's website and above from Les Cloux vineyard, is just west of the village – and this is just the sort of red you could enjoy without food, as well as with vegetable and fish dishes. Even fashionable vegan ones.

The small (4.5-hectare/11-acre) Rully domaine is owned by Hélène Defaix, who married Didier Defaix, whose family estate is the 27-ha Domaine Bernard Defaix. All wines are made at their winery just outside Chablis but the transport of fruit (or juice?) doesn't seem to have done any harm to this Chalonnaise red. Both domaines were certified organic until the annus horribilis of 2016 with its rampant mildew. Red wine production was down 30% in Rully, where only half as much white was produced as usual. But thanks to the even more severe frosts that hit Chablis, along with mildew, poor flowering and, just for good measure, hail, Bernard Defaix's Chablis production was down by 80% in 2016 (see Time to buy 2014 and 2015 Chablis).

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Oct 2017

Didier Defaix (see Domaine Bernard Defaix on Chablis section) runs this 6 ha domaine with his wife Hélène as the vineyards belonged to her great aunt who, until Defaix took over, sold the production as grapes. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hours drive though plans are now in place to build local facilities. Defaix noted that in 2016 “our vines suffered a lot of frost damage. It started in Chassagne and hit Bouzeron and Rully hard but it was much less severe in Mercurey. The growing season was further plagued by a lot of rain and mildew and even a bit of botrytis and sunburned fruit. Overall, we were down between 50 and 90%, which obviously isn’t great. Despite all of these problems, the quality of the wines is actually surprisingly good and I really like this vintage.” Defaix said that the 2016 reds were still in the middle of their malos and thus were not presented. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in March 2017.

Whites:

2016 Rully “Mont Palais”: A pungent nose combines notes of petrol-inflected and mildly exotic white orchard fruit that are trimmed in enough wood to notice. There is impressive richness to the sappy and intense medium-bodied flavors that terminate in an appealingly dry and sneaky long finish. This should be approachable, and enjoyable, young. (88-91)/2019+
2016 Rully “Les Cloux”: Generous if not dominant wood sets off the moderately exotic aromas that also display a whiff of petrol. The rich, caressing and admirably concentrated middle weight flavors possess a slightly rounder mouth feel that carries over to the slightly warm if solidly persistent finish. This too should be enjoyable on the younger side. (88-91)/2020+
2016 Rully “Rabourcé”: Top Value . A slightly more complex nose combines ripe notes of white peach, apricot, menthol and wood toast. As is virtually always the case, this is the biggest and richest of the wines in the range with its powerful medium weight flavors that brim with dry extract before delivering excellent length on the lingering and dry finish where a touch of citrus peel character arises. (89-91)/2021+
2015 Rully “Mont Palais”: A discreet application of wood sets off the pretty nose of herbal tea, apple, citrus and white floral aromas. The seductively textured and solidly concentrated middle weight flavors possess good volume while delivering nice length on the bitter lemon-inflected and mildly warm finale. This forward and succulent, indeed almost oily, effort should drink well young. 88/2019+
2015 Rully “Les Cloux”: Enough wood to mention serves as a backdrop for the mildly exotic nose that reflects plenty of petrol and ripe spiced pear scents. The mouth feel of the medium-bodied flavors is both finer and more delineated plus there is more obvious minerality present on the balanced and persistent finish that also exhibits a hint of bitter lemon. 89/2020+
2015 Rully “Rabourcé”: A pungent nose displays notes of wood and firm reduction and as such I would strongly recommend a thorough aeration first. The palate impression of the medium weight flavors is almost a blend of the first two wines with good richness to the powerful and mineral-driven finish that once again displays hints of citrus pith. This mildly austere and promising effort has the underlying material to age well over the short to perhaps medium-term. 90/2020+ Burghound.com October 2017 8 6

Reds:

2015 Rully: Soft though not invisible wood can be found on the ripe red cherry and earth-scented nose. There is both good volume and punch to the rich middle weight flavors that conclude in a mildly rustic and warm if persistent finish. To enjoy after only a few years of bottle age. 87/2019+
2015 Rully “Préaux”: Light ruby color. The expressive nose is more complex and a bit more elegant as well with its pretty array of very pinot aromas that are trimmed in discreet wood. There is a finer mouth feel to the delicious, round and attractively textured medium weight flavors that aren’t especially persistent but avoid the warmth displayed by the straight villages. This too should drink well early on. 88/2019+
2015 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: The wood toast isn’t subtle as it fights with the menthol-infused aromas of earth and pepper red and dark cherry aromas. The medium-bodied flavors are also relatively refined though the wood comes up again on the otherwise reasonably well-balanced finish. This is one of those wines where it’s not clear that there is sufficient stuffing to eat the oak treatment before the wine reaches its peak. If you’re wood averse, this may not be for you. 88/2019+

GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2018

Rully 1er cru Les Cloux 2015** : Wife of Didier Defaix, winegrower in Chablis, Hélène Jaeger took over the estate of her great aunt Henriette Niepce in 2005. Then she started the conversion to organic farming (certification in 2009). 
Aged for eighteen months in barrel, this 1er cru looks like a grand cru. Enlightened with golden rays, it develops a complex aromatic intensity, reminiscent of fresh fruit, small white flowers and face powder. Stylish and racy, the palate reveals fat and fresh at the same time, rich and balanced. A miracle for a solar vintage.
Rully 1er cru Rabourcé 2015* : A vanilla nosed (or flavoured) wine, rich and fat in the mouth, balanced by a welcome liveliness on the finale.
Rully 1er cru Mont Palais 2015* : Notes of brioche, honey, white flowers and citrus on the nose ; in the mouth, some volume, sweetness and a vinous side. Very representative of the vintage.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD'HUI - July/August 2017 - Special vintage 2016

Rully Rouge – 16 : Dark fruit nose with a noble wood. Great structure in the mouth, with tannins well integrated and a precise final.
Rully premier cru blanc Mont-Palais – 16 : Open nose of ripe fruit with notes of hazelnut. Fine substance in the mouth, with ampleness and fatness.
Rully premier cru blanc Rabourcé – 15,5 : Nose of ripe yellow orchard fruit. The mouth is powerful, racy, though it still needs some maturing. Fine potential.

WINE & SPIRITS - April 2017

The Most Popular Wines in America’s Top restaurant
“As for France, “The price of Burgundy is driving a lot of people away”, observes Aldo Sohm of Le Bernardin in NYC – which makes accessible, overperforming Burgundy a hot commodity. For Jason Jacobeit at NYC’s Bâtard, access came in the form of the 2014 Jaeger-Defaix Rully, his top-selling wine. “When a new vintage of that Rully arrives”, he says, “I taste it within forty-height hours, and if I like it I buy ten cases”.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD'HUI - March April 2017

Rully premier cru blanc Rabourcé 2015 – 17,5/20 - Spice and yellow orchard fruit on the nose. So much substance in the mouth, with a sweet side that reminds well the 2015 vintage. A sapid finish.
Rully premier cru blanc Cloux 2015 – 17/20 - Lemon-flavoured and spicy notes  combine on the nose. The mouth is greedy, again with a solar side, though without any heaviness.
Rully premier cru blanc Mont-Palais 2015 – 16,5/20 - A wine that combines a supple and round texture, with some tension and freshness. Citrus and flowers notes on the nose and in the mouth.
Rully premier cru rouge Préaux 2014 – 15,5/20 - A nose of red berries with notes of raspberry liqueur. The mouth is pleasant, with supple and agreeable tannins. A wine  that should drink well from now.
Rully premier cru blanc Mont-Palais 2014 – 15,5/20 - A pure and fresh nose of citrus, with slight notes of melted butter. The mouth is clean, with tensed and lemony finish.
Rully premier cru blanc Rabourcé 2014 – 15/20

L'EXPRESS - August 2016 (a french weekly newspaper)

Special summer Vineyards in France - Vinegrowers in Burgundy
Hélène Jaeger-Defaix and Didier Defaix
She is winegrower in Côte châlonnaise, he is the same in the Chablis vineyard ! With the horse as the only means of transport, their life would have been complicated in the olden days. This is possible today. Native of Rully – her grandmother was the famous photographer Janine Niepce  -, Hélène takes care of the 6 ha vineyard, half-red, half-white,  of her family. Her Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre, a red wine, is blessed with an ideal microclimate. The movie Premiers crus was filmed in their property. In Chablis, Didier and his brother Sylvain make an outstanding Côte de Lechet, one of the most famous premiers crus of the left bank, crammed with loose stones and fossils. This is made of pure and saline mineral, a character like no other. They go well together, he and she, their climates too.

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Oct 2016

The whites:
2015 Rully “Mont Palais”: A discreet application of wood sets off the pretty nose of apple, citrus and white floral aromas. The seductively textured and solidly concentrated middle weight flavors possess good volume while delivering nice length on the bitter lemon-inflected finale. This forward and succulent effort should drink well on the younger side. (88-90)/2018+
2015 Rully “Les Cloux”: Reduction pushes the fruit to the background and about all that can be discerned at present are citrus nuances. Otherwise the mouth feel of the medium-bodied flavors is both finer and more delineated plus there is more obvious minerality present on the balanced and persistent finish that also exhibits a hint of bitter lemon. (89-91)/2019+
2015 Rully “Rabourcé”: A pungent nose displays notes of wood and reduction while the palate impression of the medium weight flavors is almost a blend of the first two wines with good richness to the powerful and mineral-driven finish that once again displays hints of citrus pith. This mildly austere and promising effort has the underlying material to age well over the medium-term. (89-92)/2020+
2014 Rully “Mont Palais”: A subtle touch of wood and mild reduction set off notably floral aromas of citrus peel, apple and pear nuances. There is good richness but also good verve to the nicely intense middle weight flavors that possess a lush mouth feel, all wrapped in a clean, dry and acceptably complex finale. 88/2018+
2014 Rully “Les Cloux”: Once again subtle but not invisible oak and soft reduction frame the mostly white orchard fruit and lemon-tinged aromas. There is a lush and seductively textured mouth feel to the delicious and sappy medium-bodied flavors that possess unusually good grip for a Rully along with excellent persistence. This is really quite good and well-worth considering. 91/2020+ Burghound.com October 2016 104
2014 Rully “Rabourcé”: A ripe but airy, cool and fresh array is comprised of soft reduction that isn’t enough to mask the white orchard fruit, in particular pear and apple, together with citrus, floral and herbal tea nuances that are once again trimmed in soft wood. There is lovely intensity to the mineral-inflected flavors that coat the palate with dry extract yet the finish remains notably linear. I very much like the sense of underlying tension along with the bracing salinity. Good stuff that is also worth your attention. 91/2020+
The reds:
2014 Rully: Soft wood sets off notes of red cherry, earth and a humus nuance that can also be found on the seductive and energetic middle weight flavors that terminate in a delicious if mildly austere finale. This clean and dry-in-the-best sense effort should unwind quickly. 88/2018+
2014 Rully “Préaux”: Light ruby color. The more complex nose displays notes of earth, spice and classic red pinot fruit aromas. There is both fine richness and vibrancy to the well-detailed medium weight flavors that possess a really lovely, indeed even sleek, texture while delivering noticeable minerality on the lingering and balanced finale. This well-made effort should also unwind fairly quickly. 90/2019+
2014 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: There is more volume, richness and muscle to the utterly delicious yet quite serious medium weight flavors that also possess an attractive texture, all wrapped in a dusty, complex, balanced and lingering finale. I would suggest allowing this wine from 5 to 8 years of cellar time and drink it over the following 5 years. 91/2019+

GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2017

Rully 1er cru Rabourcé 2014 **: wife of Didier Defaix, winegrower in Chablis, Hélène Jaeger took over the estate of her great aunt Henriette Niepce in 2005. Then she started the conversion to organic farming (certification in 2009). This cuvée shows in a fine pale gold colour, the nose tinged with complex and delicate aromas of white flowers (hawthorn, acacia) and citrus. The mouth, rich and generous, perfectly balanced by a melted acidity with lemony flavours, displays a long finale on the peach an apricot. Pep and style.
Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2014 **: a fruity and spicy wine to the nose, ample, round and generous in the mouth, leaning against stylish and silky tannins.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – October 2015

Tomorrow Stars
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix, Côte Chalonnaise
Hélène Jaeger is Didier Defaix’s wife, a renowned producer in Chablis (Bernard Defaix domain), whose wines compare with those of the star domains in the area. Moreover, it’s in Chablis that the grapes coming from the 6 hectares of the domain in Rully are vinified, after a transport in small closed vats, that preserve their properties. The domain Jaeger Defaix has been progressing quickly, from the years 2010. It has caught up the Côte chalonnaise elite, and its results have nothing to do with good fortune. The very old vines (more than 50 years of age in average) are organic farmed, ploughed, disbudded and then hand harvested at optimal maturity. Hélène Jaeger attaches importance to have a fine knowledge of all her parcels, with she has refined year after year. The result is remarkably precise wines with a great aromatic purity, for the reds as well as for the whites. This is “haute couture”, as for the 2014’s, which will not be bottled before spring 2016, and which promise to be as excellent as the 2012’s. To book urgently.

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Oct 2015

This is a relatively new domaine that comprises 4 ha spread over five 1ers where the first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Domaine Bernard Defaix above) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive though plans are now in place to build local facilities. Defaix noted that the 2014s  reds had not yet finished their malos and are thus not reviewed. The 2013s, revisited below, were bottled in February and March 2015. 

Whites:
2014 Rully “Mont Palais”: A subtle touch of wood sets off notably floral aromas of citrus peel, apple and pear nuances. There is good richness but also good verve to the nicely intense middle weight flavors that possess a lush mouth feel, all wrapped in a clean, dry and solidly complex finale. This is really quite good and worth considering. (89-92)/2019+
2014 Rully “Les Cloux”: Once again subtle but not invisible oak highlights frame the mostly white orchard fruit and lemon-tinged aromas. There is a lush and seductively textured mouth feel to the delicious and sappy medium-bodied flavors that possess unusually good grip for a Rully along with excellent persistence. This too is really quite good. (90-92)/2020+
2014 Rully “Rabourcé”: A ripe but airy, cool and fresh array is comprised of white orchard fruit, in particular pear and apple, together with citrus, floral and herbal tea nuances that are once again trimmed in soft wood. There is lovely intensity to the mineral-inflected flavors that coat the palate with dry extract yet the finish remains notably linear. I very much like the sense of underlying tension along with the bracing salinity. Good stuff that is worth your attention. (90-92)/2020+
2013 Rully “Mont Palais”: An expressive and moderately exotic nose offers up notes of white peach, apricot, floral and soft wood nuances. There is good tension and detail to the punchy and textured middle weight flavors that possess a delicious, clean and agreeably dry finish where a touch of citrus surfaces. This lush and generously proportioned effort should drink well young but should be capable of rewarding 3 to 4 years of cellar time. 90/2018+
2013 Rully “Les Cloux”: Here the nose is noticeably less openly exotic though there is a touch of it on the lemon, pear and apple scents aromas. There is a lovely sense of verve and intensity to the lightly mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that deliver a similar clean and dry finish with equally good length and depth. 90/2019+
2013 Rully “Rabourcé”: There is still a note of post-bottling sulfur present on the otherwise cool and admirably pure aromas of pear, citrus and floral scents so I would suggest decanting this if you’re tempted to try a bottle upon release. There is fine intensity and ample minerality to the delicious medium weight flavors that possess good mid-palate density, all wrapped in a clean, lemony and notably dry finish that stops just short of being overtly austere. Worth considering. 91/2019+

Reds:
2013 Rully: Light ruby color. A fresh and bright nose is comprised of pretty violet and plum scents with soft spice oak hints in the background. There is good energy and detail to the light to barely medium weight flavors that terminate in an ever-so-mildly edgy finish that manages to be reasonably persistent. 87/2017+
2013 Rully “Préaux”: Here the slightly more oaked nose evidences hints of menthol on the essence of red pinot fruit suffused aromas. There is a lovely sense of tension to the vibrant, detailed and delicious medium weight flavors that possess slightly better persistence on the delicious finish that also displays a touch of edginess. 87/2018+
2013 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: A more deeply pitched nose offers up slightly riper red and dark currant aromas that are trimmed in notes of both earth and wood. There is good richness and a bit more depth to the delicious medium-bodied flavors that are still very backward and a bit chewy, all wrapped in an attractively persistent finish. This will need a few years to flesh out and harmonize. 88/2019+

LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2016

Rully 1er cru Rabource 2013 ** Wife of Didier Defaix, winegrower in Chablis, Hélène Jaeger took over the estate of her great aunt Henriette Niepce in 2005. Then she started the conversion to organic farming (certification in 2009). Really stylish in its light gold with green glints colour, this 2013 delivers intense scents of yellow orchard fruit, brioche bread and white flowers mixed with mineral notes of terroir. The palate shows rich, supple and soft, from the attack to the finish.
Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2013 * A 1er cru appreciated for its fruity side, intense, for its fatness, its structure well set up and its definite ability for ageing.
Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais 2013 * Hawthorn, lemon and bush peach, this Rully attracts with its intense nose and its palate as well aromatic, fresh and lingering.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – July/ August 2015 - Special Vintage 2014

Rully 1er cru blanc Les Cloux – 16,5/20 - The domain has really well developped since the last  vintages. An example with this premier cru that shows fresh aromas of exotic fruit, the texture is crispy, greedy and saline.
Rully 1er cru blanc Mont-Palais – 15,5/20 - Gold colour, bright. Citrus aromas, delicate and fresh. The wine is straight, pure, long, with a fine mineral finish.

WEINWIRTSCHAFT - Augustt 2015 - Affordable 1ers crus

Rully 1er cru Les Cloux 2013 Gold, complex, white flowers, pear, lemon, grilled notes of walnut. Silky opening. Delicate notes on the mouth. Salty and juicy.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – May/June 2015

Rully, villages and premiers crus, reds and whites 2012
Best value - Domaine Jaeger Defaix 
Wife of the chablisian winegrower Didier Defaix, Hélène Jaeger took over the Domaine du Chapitre, in Rully, estate of her great aunt. In 2009, she got the organic certification for that 6 ha vineyard, composed of  4.5 ha of premiers crus Mont-Palais, Les Cloux and Rabourcé for the whites, Les Préaux and Clos du Chapitre for the reds. The very old vines, very little  productive – more than 50 years of age – are ploughed and disbudded, and then hand harvested. The grapes are sorted out twice and vinified in Chablis in the modern installations of the Bernard Defaix domain, after a transport in small closed vats, that preserve their properties. The wines are aged 18 months in barrels, however only the red premiers crus have a third of new barrels, bought from the cooper in Rully. Hélène Jaeger produces wines that combine fineness and detail, faithful to their origins. 

Rully premier cru white Mont-Palais – 18  Rich and subtle flavors of blood orange, almond paste, flowers … In the mouth, the wine is reserved, though deep, dense, refined, and promises a fine development. Stylish !

Rully premier cru white Les Cloux – 17,5  The domain has taken off since the last vintages … superb nose of orange marmalade notes, pineapple, vanilla, citrus fruit … In the mouth, the wine is generous, concentrated, fleshy, full, and at the same time expresses a fine minerality.

Rully premier cru whit Rabourcé – 17  The domain is run in organic farming by Hélène Jaeger and her chablisian husband Didier Defaix, and has reached the leaders. An example with this wonderful premier cru full of richness, dense, aromatic, crunchy and pure.

Rully premier cru rouge Clos du Chapitre – 15,5 A beautiful garnet color. Flavors of red berries, flowers, spices …In the mouth, the wine shows a lovely detail, is crispy, fleshy, with greedy tannins.

BURGUNDY REPORT - April 2015

Rully – 2013 blancs
Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux: A mineral and complex nose with plenty fo freshness behind. There is more weight to the flavor here, with enough balancing acidity -  it’s clearly a step up from the villages wines. The length of flavor is excellent too. Good balance and perhaps riper, almost pineapple fruit, but very well-balanced too. Excellent.
Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais: A direct line of flavour that’s more mineral than fruit. Hmm – this has a lovely width and weight of flavor. There’s, again, plenty of mineral aspect to the flavor which holds on very well. This is super.
Rully 1er Cru Rabourcé: Another fresh, soapy-clean, nose – here underpinned with a discreet oak note. Lithe, complex then expands again in the mid-palate with some freshness that’s accented with Pouilly-Fuissé-style oak. The finish even has a faint dry extract. Excellent.

Rully 1er Cru Rabourcé 2012 ** Wife of Didier Defaix, winegrower in Chablis, Hélène Jaeger took over the estate of her great aunt Henriette Niepce in 2005. Then she started the conversion to organic farming (certification in 2009).  Aged 18 months in barrel, this 2012, very much expressive, displays a fine nose of white fruit, flower and light citrus notes. Mineral and crispy, the mouth confirms the aromas’ expression and shows a good volume. A fine wine for ageing, intense and stylish. 2016 -2019 – cooked cheese.

Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux 2012 * A wide range of aromas (tangerine, muscat, fresh hazelnut), that flirts with slight wood, well controlled. 2016-2020.

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE - Sélection 2015

DOMAINE JAEGER DEFAIX *
The domain : in 2002, Hélène Jaeger-Defaix, Didier Defaix’s wife (domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis) took over a part of the vineyard owned by her great aunt, Henriette Niepce, in Rully, and then, in 2005, the whole domain of 4,5 hectares. A significant work has been done to rebuild the vineyard heritage; the domain has been certified as organic farming since 2012, and it seems to come to a turning point.

The wines: unlike 2011 where the range was marked by tightness, 2012 vintage produced white rully that could be described as winter wines, more aromatic and strong. The red wines need to gain a little more roundness, but promise to become straightforward.

This is a relatively new domaine that comprises 4 ha spread over five 1ers where the first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Domaine Bernard Defaix above) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive though plans are now in place to build local facilities. Defaix noted that the 2013s had only just finished their malos and were reduced while the 2012s, revisited below, were bottled in February 2014. (Winebow, Inc., www.winebow.com, Montvale, NJ, Vigneron Imports, www.vigneronimports.com, Oakland, CA and Vin de Garde Wines Ltd., www.vdgwines.com, Portland, OR; Alliance Wines, www.alliancewine.co.uk, Enotria Winecellars Ltd., www.enotria.co.uk, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, and Domaine Direct, www.domainedirect.co.uk, UK).

Whites:

2013 Rully “Mont Palais”: A bit of sulfur suppresses the expressiveness of the nose but the underlying fruit seems both ripe and fresh. There is good tension and detail to the punchy and textured middle weight flavors that possess a delicious, clean and agreeably dry finish where a touch of citrus surfaces. (87-89)/2017+

2013 Rully “Les Cloux”: Here too there is just enough sulfur to impede a clear reading of the nose but again the underlying fruit appears to be fresh and ripe against a backdrop of subtle wood toast. There is a lovely sense of verve and intensity to the lightly mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that deliver a similar clean and dry finish but with better depth. (88-91)/2018+

2013 Rully “Rabourcé”: A discreet but not invisible dollop of oak allows the cool and admirably pure aromas of pear, citrus and floral scents to be appreciated. There is fine intensity and ample minerality to the delicious medium weight flavors that possess good mid-palate density, all wrapped in a clean, lemony and notably dry finish that stops just short of being overtly austere. (89-91)/2019+

2012 Rully “Mont Palais”: A very subtle application of wood toast sets off muscat-like aromas that display a top note of dried flowers. The very generously proportioned middle weight flavors possess a succulent mouth feel before concluding in a lingering and vibrant finish that offers acceptable depth. 88/2019+

2012 Rully “Les Cloux”: A ripe nose also carries a hint of exoticism on the mostly white and yellow orchard fruit suffused nose that is trimmed in a mild wood influence. The palate impression is again quite round and generous with better volume to the slightly more concentrated medium-bodied flavors where the finale is given added lift by the lemon-tinged supporting acidity on the balanced and lingering finish. 89/2017+

2012 Rully “Rabourcé”: Once again there is a hint of the tropical to the well-layered nose of ripe orchard fruit, particularly pear, and citrus hints. There is equally good volume here to the opulent and exceptionally rich and mouth coating flavors that brim with dry extract before terminating in a long and balanced finish where a touch of bitter lemon appears. 90/2017+

Reds:
2013 Rully: A fresh and bright nose is comprised of pretty violet and plum scents with soft spice hints in the background. There is good energy and detail though the copious gas makes it harder to assess the underlying structure though it does appear to be phenolically mature. (87-89)/2017+

2013 Rully “Préaux”: Here the nose is similar if slightly more complex and that depth carries over to the vibrant, detailed and delicious medium weight flavors that possess slightly better persistence though again the abundant gas makes this difficult to accurately assess. (88-90)/2018+

2013 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: Heavy reduction completely flattens the fruit. There is good richness and a bit more depth to the delicious medium-bodied flavors that are still very backward and a bit chewy, all wrapped in an attractively persistent finish. This will need a few years to flesh out and harmonize. (88-91)/2019+

2012 Rully: A ripe and very pinot nose of various red berry fruit scents is displayed against a backdrop of earth and discreet oak nuances. There is good vivacity to the delicious and moderately rustic middle weight flavors that are lush and round before terminating in an acceptably persistent finish. Note that this should drink well immediately if desired. 87/2017+

2012 Rully “Préaux”: Though the underlying fruit appears to be ripe a mild touch of reduction is sufficient to make decanting this for a few minutes advisable. As is usually the case this is more concentrated and a bit finer than the straight Rully with more volume as well to the medium weight flavors where about the only nit is a subtle touch of warmth on the lingering finish. This delicious effort could also be enjoyed young if wanted. 88/2017+

2012 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: Ripe and attractively fresh red currant aromas combines with hints of earth, spice and wood nuances. The spice character continues onto the mildly rustic middle weight flavors that exude a pretty touch of minerality that adds lift to the delicious and complex finish where the wood telegraphed by the nose resurfaces. This will most appeal to those who enjoy evident, if not generous, oak influence with their burgundy. 89/2018+

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – July/August 2014, Special Vintage 2013

Rully premier cru blanc Les Cloux – Domaine Jaeger-Defaix 17/20
« A beautiful wine, full and harmonious », stated  a taster. The mouth is rich, long and balanced at the same time. A cuvée that should be promising with time.

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE - June 2014 - Special Vintage 2013

Rully 1er Cru Cloux - Domaine Jaeger Defaix
The identity of this white wine is revealed through flavors that combine fresh grapefruit with lime tree flowers. Its matter follows on the limestone’s edge with elegance.

GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2014

Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais 2011 Hélène Jaeger took over in 2005 the family property situated in Rully. She converts the whole vineyard to organic farming and offers with steadiness quality wines. Reminding of the colour of fresh straw with its fair reflection, this 2011, appealing to the nose displays white flowers, candied citrus and mild tobacco aromas. Ample and rich, the mouth is supported by a fine freshness which brings balance and length. The 1er cru rouge 2011 Clos du Chapitre is quoted for its scents of spice and raspberry, however it still remains a hint of bitterness to the palate. It can be kept one or two years.

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, Oct 2013

This is a relatively new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Domaine Bernard Defaix above) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive though plans are now in place to have local facilities. Defaix noted that just  as there was in  2011, there was a “huge hailstorm that hit the Côte Chalonnaise. There was an enormous amount of sorting required and we wound up with exceptionally tiny yields. I did no lees stirring for the whites as they are already very concentrated and rich and didn’t see those characteristics enhanced. On the red side I did a very gentle vinification as I did in 2011 as we decided to accentuate the fruit rather than the structure”. The red were still undergoing their malos and as such were not reviewed. They will be reviewed from bottle next year. Defaix noted that the 2011 whites revisited below were bottled in December 2012. 

Whites : 

2012 Rully “Mont-Palais” : A perfumed and very pretty nose of white flowers, citrus and soft spice hints introduces energetic, rich and generous middle weight flavors that are blessed with a firm acid spine on the lingering finish where a trace of bitter lemon appears. (87-89)/2017+

2012 Rully “Les Cloux” : A discreet touch of wood sets off the pretty white orchard fruit, floral and citrus blossom aromas. There is both good volume and plenty of dry extract on the very generously proportioned medium weight flavors that possess fine intensity in the long and delicious finish. (88-91)/2017+

2012 Rully “Rabourcé” : Very mild reduction does not completely mask the otherwise layered nose of white orchard fruit and citrus hints. There is equally good volume here to the opulent and exceptionally rich and mouth coating flavors that brim with dry extract before terminating in a long and balanced finish where a touch of bitter lemon appears. (89-91)/2017+ Selected on the "Top value" wines

2011 Rully “Mont-Palais” : A ripe and exotic nose; indeed this evidences notes of muscat that are trimmed in enough SO2 to notice and I would suggest decanting this first. The impressively rich and concentrated flavors brim with plenty of dry extract before culminating in an incredibly intense and precise finish that is not only delicious but delivers fine length. This is not an elegant wine but it certainly does not lack for character and punch plus it could be enjoyed now. 89/2016+

2011 Rully “Les Cloux” : Here too there is a touch of post bottling SO2 that detracts only mildly from the otherwise expressive nose from the slightly exotic nose of hone y suckle and yellow orchard fruit scents. The precise, energetic and strikingly powerful medium-bodied flavors explode on the bone dry, long, lemony and persistent finish where a touch of wood appears. This is not for everyone as it’s almost too much of a good thing as there is a serious amount of palate coating dry extract,  but if you like muscular and powerful whites, this would be one to consider. In sum this is an impressively scaled Rully blanc. 90/2017+

2011 Rully “Rabourcé” : Once again there is a touch of post-bottling SO2 that doesn’t really mar the elegant nose that features ripe but airy aromas of citrus, white flowers, pears and green apple. There is fine intensity to the mineral-driven middle weight flavors that possess excellent verve on the agreeably dry and impressively persistent finish. 90/2017+

Reds : 

2011 Rully : Light ruby. A mildly rustic nose of pepper, earth and red raspberry scents leads to supple, round and attractively textured flavors that are supported by rustic and ever-so-slightly astringent tannins that impart a mild dryness to the slightly tangy finish. This will probably best be enjoyed young for its fruit. 86/2014+

2011 Rully “Préaux” : A more complex nose of slightly riper dark raspberry and cassis aromas is cut with enough earth to notice. There is an appealing spiciness to the concentrated, serious and mouth coating flavors that terminate in a toasty, chewy and slightly astringent finish. Like the straight Rully Villages, this will best be enjoyed young for its fruit. 85/2015+

2011 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : This is also strongly reduced with plenty fo wood toast in evidence and I would highly recommend decanting this for at least 30 minutes or so though when reduction is this strong there is no guarantee that it’s not permanent. There is good power and mid-palate concentration to the round and supple flavors that exhibit noticeable dryness and a hint of bitterness on the distinctly wood-influenced finish. That said, like its two stable mates in 2011, this is very awkward today and it’s honestly difficult to predict how this will turn out but I would suggest drinking it young for its fruit. 86/2015+

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE Sélection 2014

DOMAINE JAEGER DEFAIX Vines totally taken over since 2005 by Didier Defaix and Hélène Jaeger Defaix, with a certification to organic farming since 2009. The wine-making is being done at the domain Defaix, in Chablis. The 2011 whites are quite tight, in a chablisian way, and the reds would gain to get more charm and precision. Nevertheless, a great work is being done to restore the vegetal heritage. An evolution to follow.

Rully 1er  Cru Clos du Chapitre 2011 rouge - Floral notes ; this wine is the most powerful of the range with more concentration. Cherry and morello cherry notes on the finish, good length.

Rully 1er Cru Rabourcé 2011 blanc - On a floral and stylish nose, the mouth displays notes of pear, a nice lightness and a little bitterness on the finish.

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE - June 2013 - Special Vintage 2012

Rully 1er Cru Les Préaux - Domaine Jaeger Defaix
The scarlet colour is enhanced with a clear woodiness which dominates the black fruit. The juice is deep and delicious. It’s a real premier cru !

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE - April 2013 - Special Côte Chalonnaise 2010

Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais 2010 White. A silky mouth on a crunchiness of nectarine, a work on the fruit, the barrel is much less evident (15,5/20)

Dense, with fleshy tannins, the premier cru Les Préaux can be kept for ageing before tasting (16,5/20).

The premier cru Les Cloux is a white wine for the gastronomes, and will be wonderful with a cream cooked chicken (16,5/20). 

LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2013

Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre 2010*
The conversion to the organic farming of the vineyard started in 2005, when Hélène Jaeger took over the Niepce family property. This 2010 displays a limpid cherry colour catching the eye. Its bouquet also appeals by its aromatic complexity :  fresh tobacco, blackcurrant, musk and wild strawberry. The mouth doesn’t deceive : balanced, fleshy and built on supple and greedy tannins. To serve in one or two years’ times on a pigeon with “trompettes de la mort” mushrooms. Also a mention for the 1er cru Rabourcé 2010 white, with a pleasant softness, to drink from now.

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE - June 2012 Special Vintage 2011

Rully 1er cru Mont Palais blanc – Greedy wine with white fruits on the nose. The mouth is frank complete, with a brilliant fruit. Great length for this old vines cuvée.

Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre rouge – A beautifull expression of red fruits on the nose, with a smoky touch. The mouth shows already supple tannins with an acidulous sensation on the finish. Wine selected on the rubric “5 bottles to buy first”.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – June/July 2012 Special Vintage 2011

Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 16/20
A pleasant wine with a nice structure, elegance and persistancy. A great tension on the finish.

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE - Sélection 2013

Within an appellation which develops slowly, this domain is indoubtedly one to know.  We have been surprised with two “climats” of Rully in 2010 vintage, Cloux (white) and even more Chapitre (red).

Rully Chapitre 2010 15,5/20
The nose is impressive, the substance carried by the vanilla of maturing leads to a strong liquorice note, intense. A wine in evolution.

Rully Cloux 2010 14,5/20
An amazing nose of  hawthorn and white flowers with a smooth mouth and a complex finish, carried by alcohol.

WANDS – Japan - March 2012

Rully 1er cru Rabourcé blanc 2010 ***(*)
Pale color. Great citrus fruit hints, a typical Rully. Tender, delicate and easy to drink. An ideal wine for restaurants.

Rully 1er cru Mont Palais blanc 2010 ***
A wine with roudness, easy to drink. Already opened, it has a great delicacy.

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, October 2012

This is a relatively new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive though plans are now in place to have local facilities. Defaix noted that there was a “huge hailstorm on the 13th of July that hit the Côte Chalonnaise. It affected more than 500 ha of vines and in some sectors losses ran as high as 80%! We started picking on the 3rd of September and there was an enormous amount of sorting required, even the Chardonnay. The low yields insured that we had exceptionally ripe fruit. We did a very soft and slow pressing with an exceptionally careful lees settling to try and avoid any tainted lees. Yields were in the 20 hl/ha range and we did a very gentle vinification in both colors. In red for example I used a short cool maceration period and did no punching down in favor of using only pump overs. For the whites, I knew that they were naturally going to be very rich so we did no lees stirring”.  

2011 Rully “Mont-Palais” : A ripe and exotic nose, indeed this evidences notes of muscat that continue onto the impressively rich and concentrated flavors that brim with plenty of dry extract. The incredibly intense and precise finish is not only delicious but delivers terrific length. This is not an elegant wine but it certainly does not lack for character and punch. (89-91)/2015+

2011 Rully “Les Cloux” : Here the expressive nose is not quite as ripe or exotic and is more floral. The precise, energetic and strikingly powerful medium-bodied flavors explode on the bone dry, long, lemony and overtly austere finish. This is not for everyone as it’s almost too much of a good thing but if you like muscular whites with plenty of ageing potential, this would be one to consider. (90-93)/2016+

2011 Rully “Rabourcé” : A restrained, in fact almost shy, nose features reluctant aromas of citrus, white flowers, and green apple. The gorgeously intense mineral-driven middle weight flavors possess excellent verve on the austere and impressively persistent finish. This built-to-age effort isn’t quite as complex as the Les Cloux though it’s close.  (89-92)/2017+

2010 Rully “Mont-Palais” : A fresh, ripe and pretty nose of white flower, citrus and muscat hints leads to detailed, stony and intense middle weight flavors that possess good complexity on the linear, balanced and lingering finish. This is an attractively well-delineated and linear effort of balance and harmony. 90/2015+

2010 Rully “Les Cloux” : A gentle touch of woods sets off very fresh white orchard fruit aromas that slide seamlessly into the well-detailed, intense, delicious and impressively scaled flavors. Despite the seductive mid-palate texture there is reasonably good precision though the wood rounds off the palate coating finish just a bit. 89/2014+

2010 Rully “Rabourcé” : In 2010 this possesses the most elegant nose of this trio with its high-toned notes of various citrus elements along with white flowers and green apple nuances. There is good verve and punch to the serious, dense and admirably well-concentrated flavors that possess a citrus-inflected and notably dry finish. This refined and highly complex effort is very promising and is well worth considering. 92/2015+

2011 Rully red : A mildly rustic nose of pepper, earth and red raspberry scents leads to supple, round and attractively textured flavors that are supported by rustic and ever-so-slightly astringent tannins that impart a mild dryness to the finish. This will probably best be enjoyed young for its fruit. (84-87)/2014+

2011 Rully “Préaux” : Strong reduction blocks an evaluation of the nose. There is an appealing spiciness to the concentrated, serious and mouth coating flavors that terminate in a toasty, chewy and slightly dry finish. As the description suggests  this is more than a little awkward today and it’s difficult to say how this might turn out. I suspect that, much like the straight Rully villages,  this will best be enjoyed young for its fruit. (85-88)/2015+

2011 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : This is also strongly reduced with plenty fo wood toast in evidence. There is good power and mid-palate concentration to the round and supple flavors that exhibit noticeable dryness and a hint of bitterness on the distinctly wood-influenced finish. This may come together as I suspect that the bitterness is more aligned with the obvious wood treatment rather than under ripe phenolics. That said, like its two stable mates in 2011, this is very awkward today and it’s honestly difficult to predict how this will turn out. (85-88)/2016+

2010 Rully “Préaux” : A ripe red and black fruit suffused nose also offers up nuances of menthol, pepper and earth. There is moderate wood influence on the round, supple and already accessible flavors that tighten up on the slightly dry finish. I suspect that the dryness is more due to the wood tannins than under ripe grape tannins though it’s an open question if they will integrate completely. 86/2015+ 

2010 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : Ripe dark berry fruit aromas are liberally laced with earth and again, pepper nuances. There is good intensity and detail to the mineral-inflected medium weight flavors where the supporting tannins are firm by not aggressive  and the finish offers better depth and lenght as well without the dryness. 88/2016+

LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2012

Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais 2009
In october 2002, Hélène Jaeger-Defaix, the wife of Didier Defaix, winegrower in Chablis, takes over that plot of Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais, which used to belong to her great-aunt, Henriette Niepce. Then in 2005, she takes over the whole estate, 4,5 ha located  exclusively on the most renowned 1ers crus. Three of them are selected in the 2012 edition. 

The Rabourcé 2009 white and Les Cloux 2009 white are also quoted. ; to drink in the year. The Mont-palais, deep gold coloured, shows an intense nose of candied fruit and beeswax. The full, rich and aromatic palate stretches to finish on warm notes.
This smoothness suggests to serve this wine with a foie gras or a matured cheese like the Langres.

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE - June 2011 - Special vintage 2010

Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais: An ambitious vinification, in old barrels, which gives a rich, fragant and well balanced wine. A fat Rully 1er Cru which does not lack length.

Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre: A full wine, with intense fruit and tight substance, well structured by fat tannins and moderate acidity. Good length.

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, October 2011

This is a relatively new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. 

Whites : 

2010 Rully “Mont-Palais” : A fresh, ripe and pretty nose of white flower, citrus and muscat hints leads to detailed, stony and intense middle weight flavors that possess good complexity on the linear, balanced and lingering finish. An attractive effort of balance and harmony. (88-91)/2013+

2010 Rully “Les Cloux” : Residual fermentation aromas presently hide the nose but there is lovely detail to the intense, delicious and impressively scaled flavors that possess just a bit more overall depth and length on the palate coating finish. This should also be quite attractive with a few years of bottle age. (89-91)/2013+

2010 Rully “Rabourcé” : Here too there are residual fermentation aromas that block a true evaluation of the nose but there is good verve and punch to the serious, dense and admirably well-concentrated flavors that possess a citrus-inflected and notably dry finish. This appears to be very promising and is worth considering. (89-92)/2014+

2009 Rully “Mont-Palais” : Relatively generous wood also exhibits vanilla and wood spice hints while framing a mildly exotic nose that is reminiscent of muscat, mango and apricot. The nicely concentrated, delicious and balanced flavors offer good length if seemingly less energy than one might hope for. This easy-to-like effort is not without its appeal but I find it to be a bit simple. 86/2012+

2009 Rully“Les Cloux”: Here the wood is much more discreet if not invisible which allows the aromas of white flowers and citrus to shine. The forward, supple and sappy middle weight flavors deliver excellent richness and culminate in a surprisingly dry and opulent finish. This possesses much better energy, depth and length. 89/2013+

2009 Rully “Rabourcé” : Here the nose is as it should be with only a trace of wood juxtaposing against a pretty mix of green and exotic yellow fruit that leads to fresh and energetic medium-bodied flavors that possess good power and detail on the long if ever-so-mildly woody finish. 89/2013+

Reds : 

2010 Rully “Préaux” : This had not finished its malo and thus, consistent with my policy of not rating wines which have not finished their malos, it is not reviewed. Not Rated.

2010 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : Vestiges of fermentation aromas presently dominate what appears to be ripe dark berry fruit underneath the funk. By contrast there is good intensity and detailed to the mineral-inflected flavors where the supporting tannins are firm by not aggressive. (87-90)/2016+

2009 Rully “Préaux” : Mild wood influence sets off a notably ripe and attractive nose of plum, red berry fruit and violet notes that give way to delicious, supple and appealingly textured flavors that possess good dry extract levels that render the moderately firm tannins almost invisible at present. This moderately complex effort should age well. 88/2014+

2009 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : Mild toast frames somber but more complex red berry fruit and spice aromas that give way to what are clearly ripe supporting phenolics that shape generous, even plump middle weight flavors delivering excellent length and balance. This should be lovely if not truly distinguished in time because despite the forward and round mouth feel the finish is actually nicely precise. 89/2014+

CUISINE ET VINS DE France (February-March 2011)

Rully 1er cru Rabourcé 2008
Nice fruit with lemon-flavoured notes, for a Chardonnay that concentrates on its fatness and a full and lively substance. The woodier finish, toasted under the taste bud, leaves in the mouth a hint of almond and brioche. The same care is brought to the white 1er Cru “Les Cloux”.

LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2011

Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2008*
This Clos du Chapitre, monopoly of the domain, is a thirty-five years old plot of pinot noir, completely encircled with low walls. Its wine has all the assets to please : a deep garnet-red colour, a nose combining violet and blackcurrant to coffee and vanilla, and a full-bodied mouth. The elegance of the tanins helps the final to become harmonious. The white 1er Cru Rabourcé 2008, quoted for its expressive fruitiness, can wait two years at least.

THE BEST WINES OF FRANCE 2011 – Green Guide

Hélène Jaeger has, at first in 2002, taken over a plot of Rully Premier Cru which belonged to her great aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of the famous  inventor, and then the whole domain in 2005. Wife of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, she puts into practice the principles suitable for the great wines, with plowed soils and handpicking. The harvesting is vinified in the cellar, in Chablis, which has all the equipments. The whites are vinified in barrels.

The wines : Les Cloux is our favourite wine : provided with a good volume, this wine manages its maturing brilliantly. For the red wines, the Premier Cru Clos du Chapitre is juicy and straightforward, with a digest texture and a woodiness well assimilated. The Premier Cru Préaux is a bit lighter, with a refreshing mouth and a greedy texture.

BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, October 2010

This is a relatively new domaine whose first vintage was 2003.  It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive.

Whites :

2009 Rully “Mont-Palais” : This is more discreetly wooded thant its ’08 counterpart with a mildly exotic nose that is reminiscent of muscat. The nicely concentrated, delicious and balanced flavors offer good length if seemingly less energy than one might hope for. As such, the wine seems a bit flat today though there are a variety of legitimate reasons that this could be. (86-89)/2013+

2009 Rully “Les Cloux” : This is still quite raw with overt fermentation and toast aromas that dominate the otherwise  typical aromas of white flowers and citrus. The forward, supple and sappy middle weight flavors deliver excellent richness and culminate in a surprisingly dry finish where both an acid tang and the wood surface. Awkward today. (86-89)/2012+

2009 Rully “Rabourcé” : Here the nose is as it should be with a pretty mix of green and exotic yellow fruit trimmed in moderate oak toast that leads to somewhat fresher and more energetic flavors that possess good power and detail on the long if mildly finish. (87-90)/2013+

2008 Rully “Mont-Palais” : Noticeable if not dominant wood still allows the mildly exotic orchard fruit cut with fresh citrus nuances to shine. The rich and generous medium-bodied flavors are delicious and possess a tangy finish where the muscat character also displayed by the ’09 version shows up. 88/2013+

2008 Rully “Les Cloux” : An expressive nose of fresh sliced lemons and limes trimmed in more discreet wood treatment marries into rich, full and mouth coating flavors that retain a good sense of underlying detail on the citrus and very dry finish. At present this lacks enough complexity to merit being at the next level but if it does, my rating may seem unduly conservative. 88/2013+

2008 Rully “Rabourcé” : Compared to its ’08 stable mates, here the oak is unobtrusive and allows the spicy floral and pear aromas free reign to gracefully precede the rich, full, minerally and attractively pure flavors that possess near perfect balance as well as fine length. Like the Cloux, if this can add depth in bottle, it could merit an upgrade intime. 89/2014+

Reds :

2009 Rully “Préaux” : Mild wood influence sets off a notably ripe and attractive nose of plum, red berry fruits and violet notes that give way to delicious, supple and appealingly textured flavors that possess good dry extract levels that render the moderately firm tannins almost invisible at present. This should age well. (87-90)/2016+

2009 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : Moderate reduction renders the nose impossible to fairly evaluate but the supporting phenolics are clearly ripe with generous, even plump middle weight flavors delivering excellent length and balance. This should be lovely in time because despite the forward and round mouth feel, the finish is actually nicely precise. (89-91)/2016+

2008 Rully “Préaux” : A rather rustic, even sauvage nose of warm earth, underbrush and fresh red berry fruit aromas is followed by rich, round and nicely detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess good complexity on the mildly oak-suffused but persistent finish. The wood should integrate in time but even though it’s not intrusive, it’s not invisible today. 87/2015+

2008 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : This is slightly more elegant though there are the same animale and warm earth nuances present on the otherwise fresh red berry fruit nose. The round and delicious flavors possess good verve on the generous, sappy and lingering finish that displays mild oak influence on the lingering finish. 88/2015+

LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2010

Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2007*
Hélène Jaeger took over, in 2002 the domain of her great aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of Nicéphore Niepce, the photography’s inventor. She shows here, in association with her husband Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, a red Rully of a great fineness. After a garnet-red colour, one’s finds a rich nose of blue fruit and coffee notes. After a soft attack, the mouth is filled with a dense and full substance, structured by delicate and elegant tannins. Final notes of ripe fruit and spices prolong the pleasure. To taste in two or three years’ time with some game.
A finish a little pungent, overtones of flower and vanilla distinguish the white 1er Cru Mont-Palais 2007, mentionned.

LES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2010 (Green Guide)

In 2002, Hélène Jaeger took over her first plot on Rully 1er cru coming  from her great-aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of the famous inventor Niepce, and then the whole domain in 2005. Wife of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, she applies there the principles of great wines with plowed soils and manual harvests. The wines are vinified in Chablis’s cellar that has all necessary equipment; the white wines are fermented and aged in barrels. 

The wines : 

the Rully white Les Cloux is supple and pleasant, while Rabourcé has a final a little warmer. Both red wines show quite easy.
Rully Premier Cru Les Cloux 2007   13,5/20
Rully Premier Cru Rabourcé 2007   13,5/20

BURGHOUND.COM, oct 2009 - Allen Meadows (USA)

This is a new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. Defaix explained that all of the ‘08s were presently still in malo and thus only the in-bottle ‘07s are reviewed below. The ‘08s will be reviewed in-bottle next year. 

Whites:

2007 Rully “Mont Palais”: A very subtle touch of wood sets off ripe aromas of honeysuckle and citrus plus subtle muscat notes that merge into supple, round and agreeable flavors that possess reasonably good detail and fine finishing precision. A balanced effort with fine length and excellent complexity. 89/2010+

2007 Rully “Les Cloux”: Here the wood treatment is just a bit more in evidence as it frames the pretty white flower aromas that introduce more concentrated and intense medium-bodied flavors that benefit from solid acid support on the rich, minerally and long finale. Lovely if a bit woody but note that the wood does not upset the overall balance. 89/2011+

2007 Rully “Rabourcé”: More discreet oak highlights floral and lemon zest notes that complement the rich, full and naturally sweet middle weight flavors that finish with a seductive texture, fine depth and excellent length. This is almost a hypothetical blend of the prior two wines with an added dash of underlying minerality. Recommended. 90/2011+

Reds:

2007 Rully “Préaux”: A very fresh and actually quite ripe nose of red berry fruit that evidences subtle earth and wood notes that give way to supple, round and detailed medium-bodied flavors that are utterly delicious and quite pure if not especially complex. Still, for a straightforward pinot that offers enjoyable exuberance, this is worth a look and it is already approachable. 88/2010+

2007 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: Very mild oak toast notes combine with slightly more elegant and ripe red raspberry, cherry and warm earth aromas that lead to rich, round, forward and supple flavors that are easy but not simple with a tasty and tangy finish. There is a bit better phenolic ripeness evident on the structural elements and this should repay 1 to 3 years of cellar time. In sum, this is both seductive and lovely. 89/2011+

LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2009

Rully 1er cru Préaux red 2006 : Hélène Jaeger and her husband, Didier Defaix, do the splits over Burgundy: one foot in Chablis and, since 2002, the other foot in Côte Chalonnaise with these 4.50 ha on Rully. The nose intensity of this 2006 is still discreet, but already complex: red fruits, vanilla and prune. The mouth is soft and supple, elegant and fruity. The melted tannins compose in finale a velvety cover. Flattering from now on, a wine to be served on delicatessen.

LES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2009 (Green Guide)

In 2002 Hélène Jaeger took over her first plot on Rully 1er cru coming  from her great-aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of the famous inventor Niepce, and then the whole domain in 2005. Wife of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, she applies there the principles of great wines with worked soils and manual harvests. The wines are vinified in Chablis’s cellar that has all necessary equipment; the white wines pass in casks. 

The wines: In white, the Rully Premier cru Mont Palais possesses a nice mineral nose, associated with a full and woody mouth; the structure is imposing with a beautiful maturity.
The Rully Premier cru Rabourcé is ample, fleshy and woody with a good structure, whereas the Rully Premier cru Cloux is elegant and rather racy. In red, the Rully Premier cru Preaux is fragrant and rather fine, and the Rully Premier cru Clos du Chapitre, coming from a plot completely closed by stone walls, possesses a light and fragrant structure, very elegant; the whole is long and fine.

BURGHOUND.COM, oct 2008 - Allen Meadows

This is a new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who until the Defaix' took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers and as the vineyards are slowly brought under the Defaix team's management, they will expand production. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. Interestingly, Defaix suggested that 2007 "needs time, perhaps even more than 2005 in white though the reds should come around relatively quickly." (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, all UK).

Whites:

2007 Rully "Mont Palais": A very subtle touch of wood sets off ripe aromas of honeysuckle and citrus that merge into supple, round and agreeable flavors that possess reasonably good detail and fine finishing precision. A balanced effort with fine length. (88-90)/2011+

2007 Rully "Les Cloux": Brioche and vanilla notes presently struggle with reticent white flower aromas that introduce more concentrated and intense medium-bodied flavors that benefit from solid acid support on the rich, minerally and long finale. Lovely if a bit too woody for me but note that the wood does not upset the overall balance. (89-91)/2011+

2007 Rully "Rabourcé": A moderately toasty nose frames white flower and lemon zest notes that complement the rich, full and naturally sweet middle weight flavors that finish with a seductive texture, fine depth and excellent length. This is almost a hypothetical blend of the prior two wines. Recommended. (89-92)/2012+

2006 Rully "Mont Palais": This is quite ripe with a floral and muscat suffused nose with medium weight flavors that possess excellent intensity and punch on the notably mineral finish. This is quite dry and should age well for 1 to 2 years. 88/2010+

2006 Rully "Les Cloux": A ripe but not necessarily exotic nose of green apple and acacia blossom marry into pure and more refined flavors that also possess a fine minerality on the detailed, racy and precise finish where the present level of depth is quite good if not sensational. Worth a look. 90/2010+

2006 Rully "Rabourcé": As was the case in 2007, this is almost like a blend of the Les Cloux and Mont Palais with its lightly exotic floral-infused nose that is followed by rich, full, pure and relatively powerful flavors that possess solid dry extract that confers an almost chewy texture to the mouth coating finish. This is not an elegant wine but there is plenty of both personality and character. 90/2011+

Reds:

2007 Rully "Préaux": A very fresh and actually quite ripe nose of red berry fruit that evidences subtle earth notes that give way to supple, round and detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess good energy and mildly dry finish. I would suggest drinking this on the young side. (86-88)/2010+

2007 Rully "Clos du Chapitre": Very mild oak toast notes combine with ripe red raspberry, cherry and warm earth aromas lead to rich, round, forward and supple flavors that are easy but not simple with a tasty and tangy finish. There is a bit better phenolic ripeness evident on the structural elements and this should repay 2 to 4 years of cellar time. (86-89)/2011+

2006 Rully "Préaux": A very pretty red pinot fruit nose that displays very discreet sauvage, underbrush and earth nuances that are in keeping with the supple, round and relatively sophisticated tannins that culminate in a delicious, textured, complex and utterly delicious finish. One could easily drink this now. 88/2009+

2006 Rully "Clos du Chapitre":  Light ruby. A considerably higher-toned, and highly expressive, nose of raspberry and cranberry aromas transitions very supple, forward and delicious flavors that possess more finesse than is typically displayed
by wines from this appellation. Approachable now. 87/now+

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI - October-November 2007

This domain of 4.5 hectares ( 100 % on Rully) is managed by Hélène Jaeger-Defaix (little niece of Henriette Niepce) since 2005, she is married with Didier Defaix who runs the domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis. The two domains are  separated for the work in the vineyard, but they work together for the winemaking and the marketing of the Chablis and Rully’s.

Rully 1er cru white Mont Palais 2005: “A nice terroir wine with a fresh and mineral style, with a good persistency on the mouth” comments a seduced taster. 

Rully 1er cru white Rabourcé 2005 : A nice and complex nose  with minerality and white flowers.  The wine is fresh, pure, mentholated, elegant with a good length.

Rully 1er cru red Clos du Chapitre 2005 : As a lot of 2005’s red wines, the wine is closed up. But the richness of the texture, the purity of the fruit and the length on the mouth are announcing a very promising future.

Rabourcé et Cloux under the spot lights

Our rully's are a big hit on an US TV show performed by Gary Vaynerchuk for the Wine Library, one of the most important shop on the East coast in the US: watch the video

LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2008

Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2005 rouge** : Granddaughter of the famous photographer Janine Niepce and the daughter of the first Frenchman who reached the summit of the Everest, Hélène Jaeger (wife of Didier Defaix, domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis) took in 2002 the managing of the domain of her great-aunt Henriette Niepce in Rully (4 ha). Her Clos du Chapitre red is a very admirably presented wine. Its bouquet combines the charms of the undergrowth and the fruit of strawberry. The mouth is rich and structured by present but very fine tannins: power and balance, elegance and fineness. We shall wait for this bottle two or three years calmly. Do not miss either the Rully 1er cru Rabourcé blanc 2005*, nor the Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais blanc 2005.

LES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2008 (guide vert): the Rully's Domain makes its entrance

This small domain of the Côte chalonnaise makes its entrance to the guide. Only 4,5 ha of vineyard, perfectly managed, the soils are plowed. This domain belongs to Hélène Jaeger, wife of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis. The harvesting is manual and vinified in the cellar, in Chablis. The whites are vinified in barrels.
The wines: the Rully Mont-Palais is precise and refined, an great maturity underlined by judicious using of wood, a beautiful and tense texture and a good persistency. The Cloux is of a good dimension, more fat, with notes of milk toffy. The reds are gourmand. The Clos du Chapitre possesses an intense fruit, a rather flexible and easily digestible texture. The Préaux is a real juice of cherry, with a little less structure and a small vegetale touch at the end of the mouth.

BURGHOUND.COM, October 2007

This is a brand new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who until the Defaix' took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with 5 1ers and as the vineyards are slowly brought under the Defaix team's management, they will expand production. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. As such, Defaix did not have samples of his '06s available but I did have a chance to revisit the '05s that are now in bottle. (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, all UK).

2005 Rully"Mont Palais" white: Subtle pain grillé, vanilla, citrus and white pear aromas overlay round, rich and textured flavors that possess good detail and overall, this is wine of finesse rather than power with a tangy and attractively dry finish. A very nice if slightly woody effort. 88/2008+

2005 Rully"Les Cloux" white : Subtle wood with a hint of vanilla frames ripe green fruit aromas and round, rich, even opulent and sweet flavors that offer good volume and mid-palate fat plus serious intensity on the very dry finish. There is a pretty touch of finishing minerality and though the wood resurfaces as well, it's more of a nuance than something intrusive. 90/2010+

2005 Rully"Rabourcé" white: Here the moderately wooded nose displays notes of citrus, pear as well as ripe green fruit and subtle menthol aromas that can also be found on the bigger and richer flavors that culminate in a very dry and more structured finish. This is quite ripe with a focused, punch and bone dry finish. Excellent potential here as there is a lot of dry extract which will allow the wine to age over the medium term. Terrific. 90/2010+

2005 Rully "Préaux" red : A wonderfully seductive nose redolent of dark cherry and very pinot red fruit aromas is followed by rich, sweet and delicious light to middle weight flavors that are surprisingly fine. This is not a big or particularly structured wine but it is very attractive in a simple yet elegant fashion. 88/2009+

2005 Rully"Clos du Chapitre" red: More deeply pitched aromas of dark red and blue fruits, particularly plum, introduce earthy, rich, full and sweet flavors that are also utterly delicious, all wrapped in a more structured and powerful finish. This offers excellent quality for a Rully red and is recommended. 89/2011+

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, June 2007, special vintage 2006

Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais 2006 : Nice flavours, beautiful acidity in attack, wood integrated into a round continuation with fat and good length.

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, October 2007

Premier cru Clos du Chapitre red 2005
Hélène Jaeger-Defaix, the wife of Didier Defaix from domaine Bernard Defaix in Chablis, took over the domaine of her great-aunt between 2002 and 2005. Entirely closed with stone walls, the Clos du Chapitre is located on the Premier cru Chapitre. For the first vinification, the mouth is dense and very elegant. Beautiful final.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD'HUI October-November 2007

This domain of 4.5 hectares ( 100 % on Rully) is managed by Hélène Jaeger-Defaix (little niece of Henriette Niepce) since 2005, she is married with Didier Defaix who runs the domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis. The two domains are separated for the work in the vineyard, but they work together for the winemaking and the marketing of the Chablis and Rully's.

Rully 1er cru white Mont Palais 2005: "A nice terroir wine with a fresh and mineral style, with a good persistency on the mouth" comments a seduced taster. 

Rully 1er cru white Rabourcé 2005 : A nice and complex nose with minerality and white flowers. The wine is fresh, pure, mentholated, elegant with a good length.

Rully 1er cru red Clos du Chapitre 2005 : As a lot of 2005's red wines, the wine is closed up. But the richness of the texture, the purity of the fruit and the length on the mouth are announcing a very promising future.

The GUIDE HACHETTE 2007

Rully 1er cru Préaux rouge 2004*: Viticulturist in Milly near Chablis with herhusband Didier Defaix, Hélène is manageing the domain of her grand aunt Henriette Niepce in Rully since 2002. Can we dream better marriage in white when the Chablisian and the Cote Chalonnaise are going together to the altar? But it is a Préaux rouge that we are tasting here. Brilliance, tears, purplish ring, nothing is missing. The nose is on delicate red fruits notes. Structured and racy, the palate is not dominated by the tanins nor by the barrels. Enough freshness in reserve for the finish.
Mont-Palais Blanc 1er cru 2004* is very good too and has one star also.

BURGHOUND.COM, October 2006

2005 Rully"Les Cloux" 1er cru white (86 89)
2005 Rully"Mont Palais" 1er cru white (87 89)
2005 Rully"Rabourcé" 1er cru white (88 90)
2005 Rully"Clos du Chapitre" 1er cru red (87 90)
2005 Rully"Préaux" 1er cru red (86 89)

This is a brand new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who until the Defaix' took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with 5 1ers and as the vineyards are slowly brought under the Defaix team's management, they will expand production. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, all UK).

2005 Rully"Les Cloux" white : Subtle wood with a hint of vanilla frames ripe green fruit aromas and round, rich, even opulent and sweet flavors that offer good volume and mid palate fat. There is a pretty touch of finishing minerality and the wood resurfaces as well though it's more of a nuance than something intrusive. (86 89)/2008+

2005 Rully"Mont Palais" white: Subtle pain grillé, citrus and white pear aromas overlay round, rich and textured flavors that are slightly finer and more elegant with very nice detail and overall, this is a wine of finesse rather than the forward and friendly character of the Les Cloux, which I prefer by the barest of margins. (87 89)/2008

2005 Rully"Rabourcé" white: Here the nose still displays fermentation aromas as well as ripe green fruit notes that can also be found on the bigger and richer flavors that culminate in a very dry and more structured finish. This is quite ripe and I suspect that some of the tightness is because the malo just terminated. Excellent potential here as there is a lot of dry extract which will carry the quality through even though the wine is clearly in an awkward state today. (88 90)/2008+

2005 Rully "Préaux" red : A wonderfully seductive nose redolent of dark cherry and very pinot red fruit aromas is followed by rich, sweet and delicious light to middle weight flavors that are surprisingly fine. This is not a big or particularly structured wine but it is very attractive in a simple yet elegant fashion. (86 89)/2008+

2005 Rully"Clos du Chapitre" red: More deeply pitched aromas of dark red and blue fruits, particularly plum, introduce earthy, rich, full and sweet flavors that are also utterly delicious, all wrapped in a more structured and powerful finish. This offers excellent quality for a Rully red and is recommended. (87 90)/2009+

LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2006

Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais 2003: Hélène Jaeger has made her nest in Milly on Chablisian area by marrying Didier (Domaine Bernard Defaix). She is also taking over step by step the family vineyard of her great-aunt Henriette Niepce in Rully, giving birth to the domaine Jaeger-Defaix. When the child appears... This inaugural vintage is a Mont-Palais pale gold, very limpid. The nose light and floral evokes the carnation. Tender as good bread , it will gain some length with one more year of patience. Then, the great-mother of Hélène, the photographer Janine Niepce will make its portrait.